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David Horn comments on lubricating:Labelle Medium for armature and wheel bearings. Not the synthetic or with teflon, but they might be OK as long as safe for plastics. Comes in a small bottle with a needle oiler and cap.
Labelle Light for side rods, push rods, and other such mechanisms. Same small bottle with needle oiler as Medium.
Labelle white grease with Teflon, fully compatible with the above Medium and Light oils, and plastics. Brush it on with a small yet pretty stiff model paint brush (the cheapo nylon bristle white plastic handled ones from Testors work well, but I'd never paint with one). This grease comes in a small white plastic toothpaste type tube.
Wahls Clipper oil - - Get your tracks clean (worst gunk off with lighter fluid or paint thinner, and/or a Brite Boy), then dampen a small cotton rag and wipe your tracks down with Wahls, then repeat lightly with a clean dry cotton cloth. Done monthly or so, you may never get your Bright Boy out again. And there's less sparking from contact wheels on the rails. This is a super thin high quality oil available at shaver repair shops in a ~8 oz. bottle, will last you quite awhile.
Note: all Labelle products are expensive on a $$/quart basis, but they last quite awhile and work well. Some lubrication is much better than none, but too much isn't a good thing either.
Three in One oils and products like Gunk Super Oil are OK, but are
generally too thin for bearing and gear applications. Stay away from anything
containing vegetable or animal oils (no matter how environmentally
friendly). Those will eventually congele, varnish, and make a mess
of things.
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