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Adjustable Legs
The free-mo standards state that you modules needs to adjust for a top of
rail height from 50 to 62 inches in 3/4 inch increments. Here are some leg
designs I have been working for my modules. |
Design 1
My
first design idea was to use aluminum angle stock to make the legs. After
checking out the price of aluminum stock I decided against that. I figured I
could build two pieces of angle stock out of 3/4 plywood and achieve the
same result. This works very well but is too heavy. The outside piece is 3
inches wide. With some hind sight, the legs use almost as much plywood as
the frame, and almost double the weight of the module. In the picture to the
left, the legs are show in the fully collapsed mode. This makes the module
lower and easer to work on.
Here are my plans for Leg Design 1 |
Design 2
After the October 2002 setup in SLO, I realized that I was building legs
that were much stronger then they needed to be. I went back to the drawing
board and designed this new leg. It is make out of a piece of 1X2, 2X2 and
two strips of 1/4 inch masonite.
I have not yet built these legs, I will add pictures and information when
I have.
Here are my plans for Leg Design 2
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Here is the lumber cut up.
- Four 2 X 2 X 42
- Four 1 X 2 X 42
- Eight 1/4 X 3 X 42 strips of masonite.
|
 |
Here are the legs assembled. Since these pictures I have
added a 2 inch piece of 2 X 2 in the end of each leg as a stop. This is
also a place to anchor the hinge. |
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For a leveling foot I am using "Cabinet Leveling
Feet" from Lee Valley
Hardware, part number
01S06.04. I am also using a 3/8 coupling nut from the hardware
store. |
 |
Drill a hole in the end of the 2 X 2 that will be a
tight fit for the coupler. Make the hole deep enough to take the entire
shaft of the foot (4 inches). The press fit the coupler into the hole.
|
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Press the coupler all the way into the hole.
|
no picture yet |
Next drill a series of hole 3/4 of an inch apart on the
leg for adjustments. (see the picture of leg
design 1) |
no picture yet |
Drill two holes 6 inches apart on the 1/2 assembly to
mate with the holes in the leg. |
no picture yet |
You should now have a leg that will adjust the full 12
inches for the Free-Mo standard. |
no picture yet |
Mount the legs with hinges to your modules and you are
done. |
no picture yet |
You might want to add some kind of a brace to the legs
or use a
locking hinge. |
|
Design 3A
Chris has a design that he has been using for removable legs. Making the
top of his legs was difficult and required cutting and filing some PVC
fittings. With a closer look at the hardware store we redesigned the top.
Here are two different designs for a removable leg.
|
Design 4
No design 4 yet. |
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Page Last Updated
12/19/2004 |
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