It’s 3:33 p.m. on
Tuesday, October 16, 2007, and I’ve just detrained from a Trinity
Railway Express train at Dallas Union Station, where I will be boarding
Amtrak Train #22, the Texas Eagle, on my way to Chicago and then to New
York. I had flown down to Dallas on Sunday, attended a meeting on
Monday afternoon, and spent some time riding TRE and the DART
light-rail lines. This afternoon, I returned my rental car to the
Dallas-Fort Worth Airport, from where I took a shuttle bus to the
Centreport/DFW Airport TRE station, and a TRE train to Union Station in
Dallas. I had intended to catch an earlier TRE train, but missed
it, so I ended up taking the train that departs Centreport/DFW Airport
at 3:05 p.m. and is scheduled to arrive at Union Station at 3:35
p.m. My Texas Eagle is scheduled to depart at 3:40 p.m., but I
had already called Amtrak’s 800 number and talked to “Julie,” who
assured me that the train was running late.
I walked into the
station and went over to the agent who, after checking my ID, issued my
ticket for the trip. She then asked me for $775.00 (the stated
price of the trip by sleeper from Dallas to New York), and when I said
that I had used my Amtrak Guest Rewards points, she asked me to show
her my Amtrak Guest Rewards card, which I did. The agent
indicated that the train should arrive between 4:15 and 4:30 p.m., so I
took a seat in the waiting area and started working on these memoirs.
At 4:05 p.m., the
agent made an announcement that although Train #22 pulled out of the
Fort Worth station at 3:25 p.m., “it got hit by the tower” (meaning
that the dispatcher allowed other trains to precede it across the
tracks at Tower 55, just outside of the Fort Worth station), and that,
as a result, it did not actually leave Fort Worth until 4:00 p.m. and
would not be arriving in Dallas until about 4:45 or 5:00 p.m.
I stayed in the
waiting room until about 4:30 p.m., when the batteries in my computer
reached a critically low level. Instead of trying to find an
outlet to plug in my computer, I decided instead to go out to the
platform and await the arrival of my train. My ticket indicated
that I was assigned to Room 18 in Car 2232, which I recognized as the
crew dorm, so I put my belongings down near the front of the
platform. Then, at 4:43 p.m., soon after I reached the Amtrak
platform, a TRE train, consisting of three Budd cars, pulled into the
TRE track (Track 3) (between the station and the Amtrak track),
blocking the most direct route from the station to the Amtrak track
(Track 5). The TRE train
departed on time at 4:53 p.m., at which time the Texas Eagle started to
approach the station. The train stopped so that the conductor
could hand throw a switch, and then it pulled into the station, coming
to a stop at 4:56 p.m.
Today’s Texas Eagle
is pulled by engine #4 and includes a baggage car, a transition/crew
dorm car, a sleeping car, a diner, a Sightseer Lounge, and two
coaches. I immediately recognized that engine #4 had some
significance to me – at the 2002 NRHS convention, this engine was on
the special excursion train that I took from Williams to the Grand
Canyon, and then from Williams to Los Angeles via Parker,
Arizona. Interestingly, today I wore the T-shirt I had obtained
at that convention which features Santa Fe steam engine #3751 – the
engine that powered the very same train from Williams to Los Angeles
(the Amtrak engine was included in the consist just for backup and to
provide head-end power to some cars that didn’t have their own
generators). It was also interesting to note that the train had a
baggage car, as a year ago, when I last took the Texas Eagle, the
baggage car had been replaced with a 31000-series coach with a baggage
compartment on the lower level. This significantly reduced the
baggage capacity of the train, and apparently Amtrak has decided to
restore the baggage car.
I walked over to
Sandra, the sleeping car attendant, and showed her my ticket,
indicating to her that I was assigned to Room 18 of the crew dorm
car. She informed me that I had been reassigned to Room 10 of the
sleeper, and subsequently explained that she is responsible for both
the sleeper and the crew dorm, and since the sole passenger in the crew
dorm car would be detraining in St. Louis, it would be simpler if I
stayed in the sleeper, rather than the crew dorm. I told her that
it didn’t really matter to me which room I had. I left my
suitcase in the storage rack on the lower level, and Sandra took the
two bags that I was carrying and said that she would be bringing them
up to my room.
While I was waiting
to stow my suitcase in the luggage rack on the lower level, a young man
approached our train and inquired whether this was the train to Fort
Worth! We explained that he wanted the TRE train to Fort Worth
that had just departed, but that another TRE train would be arriving in
a few minutes. It always amazes me how so many people confuse
short-distance commuter trains with long-distance Amtrak trains!
Soon after we
departed Dallas at 5:03 p.m., one hour and 23 minutes late, the
conductor announced that smoking is strictly prohibited on the train,
and that if anyone is caught smoking, he would stop the train, even in
the middle of nowhere, call local law enforcement officials, and remove
the offender from the train, with no refund. I don’t recall such
a strong announcement regarding smoking ever having been made
previously on an Amtrak train. The conductor subsequently
announced that anyone on the train with electronic devices should not
leave them unattended, noting that he is aware of two incidents that
occurred this year involving the theft of such devices from Amtrak
passengers. A few minutes later, the attendant came by to hand me
my bags, and she informed me that she had made me a dinner reservation
for 6:15 p.m.
After I got settled
in my room, I decided to walk through the train. I found that the
rear coach, which had come from Los Angeles, was fairly full, with
about 50 passengers aboard (including 7 on the lower level), but there
were only about 15 passengers in the first coach (which had originated
in San Antonio). The Sightseer Lounge turned out to be a
reconditioned Superliner II car, with tables having been installed in
half of the car on the upper level.
The way the cars
are arranged on today’s train is a departure from past practice.
Both the sleeper and the rear coach were carried from Los Angeles to
San Antonio on the Sunset Limited. In the past, both cars were
coupled to the rear of the train, with the sleeper in the rear.
But today, the sleeper was placed between the crew dorm car and the
diner, while the coach was added to the rear of the train. Sandra
explained that she is the attendant for both the sleeper and the crew
dorm, and that it facilitates her duties if both cars are placed next
to each other. This involves some extra switching of cars in San
Antonio, but ample time is provided for this in the schedule. At 5:26 p.m., as we
were passing milepost 204 in Mesquite, the conductor announced that we
would soon be stopping to permit a freight train to pass us on the
left. The freight train, pulled by five Union Pacific engines,
started passing us at 5:31 p.m. It was a very long container
train which was moving very slowly, and not until 5:42 p.m. did the end
of the train finally go by, so that we could continue ahead.
I decided to spend
some time sitting at one of the tables on the upper level of the
Sightseer Lounge car, which afforded better visibility of the
countryside, so I brought my computer there and continued writing these
memoirs. We passed through the town of Terrell, which features a
nicely restored brick station, at 6:05 p.m., and we traversed Wills
Point, whose brick station also still stands, at 6:18 p.m. These
were the only two significant communities that we passed in a long
stretch of flat farmland.
At 6:24 p.m., a
call was made for the 6:15 p.m. dinner reservations, so I went into the
dining car and was seated opposite Don and Bill, who were traveling
from Los Angeles to St. Louis (and eventually to Washington,
D.C.) They had a deluxe bedroom in the sleeper, and Don related
to me that the Sunset Limited arrived in San Antonio last night about
2:15 a.m., nearly four hours late. He also noted that the train
departed at 6:00 a.m., one hour earlier than set forth in the printed
schedule, because of track work. However, when the train arrived
in Temple, where it switches from UP to BNSF, the railroad would not
allow them to depart earlier than the printed departure time, claiming
that they were not advised of the schedule change (apparently, today is
the first day that this new schedule was supposed to be
implemented). Then, between Temple and Fort Worth, the train was
further delayed, with the result that it arrived in Fort Worth over an
hour late.
Don explained that
he enjoys train travel very much, and we exchanged stories about our
respective train trips. I had brisket for dinner, accompanied by
a salad, and fruit and tea for dessert. I very much enjoyed being
able to spend an hour eating a meal in the dining car with interesting
passengers for company. During dinner, we made a brief stop in Mineola
at 6:43 p.m.
About 7:20 p.m., an
announcement was made that we would soon be stopping at Longview, and
that although not scheduled as a smoking stop, passengers were welcome
to step off the train at Longview. I decided that I wanted to
avail myself of this opportunity, so I said goodbye to my companions,
walked back to my sleeper, and stepped off the train when we arrived at
Longview at 7:29 p.m. I walked down the platform and reboarded at
the second coach. When we departed Longview five minutes later at
7:34 p.m., we were one hour and 19 minutes late.
Our next stop would
be Marshall, which features a beautifully restored station. We
arrived here at 8:00 p.m. and made two stops – one for a crew change,
and the other for passengers boarding and detraining. There is
considerable make-up time built into the schedule between Longview and
Marshall, so when we departed Marshall at 8:08 p.m., we were only 37
minutes late.
I now walked
through the train again and found that there were still about 50
passengers in the rear coach, but only about 10 passengers in the
second coach. I then returned to my room and spent some time
reviewing and updating these memoirs. I also received a phone
call from a friend who had just obtained a new cell phone and was
trying it out for the first time. Either because he hadn’t set
the phone up correctly, or because of the poor “extended network”
service that I was receiving in this rural area, neither of us could
hear anything, but Daniel called me back as we were approaching
Texarkana, and we could now hear each other.
At 9:17 p.m., we
arrived at Texarkana, a city that is split between Texas and Arkansas
(in fact, the Route Guide states that “the state line bisects the
center of the station platform,” so that when the train stops there,
part of the train is in Arkansas, and part is in Texas!).
Texarkana was announced as a smoking stop, so I briefly stepped off the
train here. I noticed some rotted wood lying on the station
platform, and realized that it must have fallen from the wooden canopy
over the platform, which is in a deteriorated condition (luckily, no
wood fell on any waiting passengers). When we departed Texarkana
at 9:23 p.m., we were 40 minutes late.
Again, I walked
through the train and counted about 45 passengers in the rear
coach. However, a number of people had boarded at Texarkana and
were assigned to the next coach, so there were now about 25 passengers
in that car, which was starting to fill up. Our train proceeded
ahead at a rather steady pace, with no further delays from freight
trains.
As we approached
Arkadelphia, I heard on the scanner that only sleeper passengers would
be getting on here. We made a brief stop here at 10:39 p.m., and
two passengers boarded. They occupied Room 8 in my car, the room
directly in front of me. Arkadelphia has a fairly large brick
station that appears to have been converted to some other use.
Our next stop would
be Malvern, and I heard on the scanner that we will be making a “double
spot” here - “three and six.” This meant that we would have to
stop twice – first, to board sleeping car passengers, who are in the
third car, and then to board coach passengers, who would be boarding
the next-to-last car (the sixth car on the train). We arrived at
Malvern, which also has a large brick station, at 11:00 p.m., and after
making two short stops to permit three passengers to board the train,
we departed at 11:02 p.m., 41 minutes late.
Throughout the
evening, Sandra, the attendant, had been coming by regularly to check
when I would want her to make up my room. She even let me know
when she would be going to the dining car to eat, so that I might find
her there if I needed her. About 11:10 p.m., she came by once
more, and I told her that she might as well make up my room now.
In the meantime, I headed over to the Sightseer Lounge car with my
computer. There were only a handful of other passengers there,
and I sat down at one of the tables and continued working on these
memoirs. I had planned to head back to my room and go to sleep in
a few minutes, but I wasn’t all that tired, so I decided to stay up
until we reached our next stop, Little Rock.
We pulled into the
Little Rock station at 11:47 p.m. Little Rock has a huge,
sprawling four-story brick station, much of which is used for other
purposes, with Amtrak relegated to a rather large space in the lower
level, which features high-backed wooden benches that must have been
moved from the original station waiting room. A rather new
concrete platform has been constructed adjacent to the track nearest
the station, which is several feet higher than the lower level of the
station.
I detrained and
briefly walked down the platform, then reboarded the train, went back
to my room, and climbed into bed. About 11:55 p.m., I heard on
the scanner that the station work was completed, but that we had to
wait for the signal. Then, at 12:03 a.m., we started backing
up. Apparently, the track adjacent to the station does not
connect at its northern end to the main track (or the connection is out
of service), so we had to back up for a short distance to switch over
to the main track, and then we pulled forward at 12:07 a.m. If
this is considered our actual departure time from Little Rock, we are
now 33 minutes late – not all that bad!
I remained awake as
we crossed the Arkansas River into North Little Rock, but fell asleep
soon afterwards. The next thing I knew was that it was about 2:10
a.m., and I heard a communication on the scanner from Train #21, the
southbound Texas Eagle. We were now stopped on a siding, and at
2:14 a.m., Train #21 passed us to the left. Although I’m not sure
of the location of this meet, it must have been somewhere near Poplar
Bluff, Missouri, and it seems that the southbound train was about an
hour and a half late.
The ride was rather
rough at times during the night, and I woke up a number of times, but I
did get a fair amount of sleep. At 6:27 a.m., I turned on the
scanner and heard a detector announce that we were at milepost 64.2,
meaning that we were about 64 miles south of St. Louis, where we are
scheduled to arrive at 7:39 a.m. I know that there is
considerable slow running approaching St. Louis, so it obvious that we
will not arrive on time.
At 7:04 a.m., I
heard on the scanner that there are three passengers on our train who
intend to connect with the train leaving for Kansas City at 8:30
a.m. (Two of those passengers were the ones who had boarded last
night in Arkadelphia and occupied the room directly in front of
mine.) The question was posed as to whether these passengers
would make the connection. I did not hear any response, but it
was subsequently announced that we should arrive in St. Louis about
8:20 a.m.
I decided to get up
at 7:15 a.m. The sun had just risen, and I was able to see the
Mississippi River on the opposite side of the train, although there was
still some fog. After making up the room for day occupancy and
stowing my bedding in the upper berth, I went downstairs to take a
shower. The water was nice and warm, and the shower was very
pleasant. The only problem was that I couldn’t find any
soap! Since I had already gotten into the shower before I
realized that there was no soap, I decided that I would just shower
without soap. I then got dressed, and at 7:45 a.m., we reached
Davis Jct., where our route turns left, leaving the Mississippi River,
permitting us to approach the St. Louis station from the west.
I now went into the
dining car, where I was informed that the dining car would close after
St. Louis and that I should plan on eating before we arrived
there. So, after briefly returning to my room, I went back to the
dining car with the hope of finishing breakfast before our arrival in
St. Louis.
I was seated
opposite a man who had driven with his daughter and son-in-law from his
home in Mt. Morris, New York (south of Rochester) to Corpus Christi,
Texas, where his children were moving. He had boarded the train
in San Antonio, and was traveling back to Rochester in coach (although
he mentioned that he hoped to take a trip to the West Coast by sleeper
next year). I got the Continental breakfast, with Rice Krispies, orange
juice and coffee.
As usual, we were
delayed in our approach to St. Louis. At 8:03 a.m., we stopped at
Iron Mountain Jct. The conductor announced that we were 20
minutes out of St. Louis but had to “wait on the Union Pacific.”
Six minutes later, we started moving, but when we reached the Grand
Avenue Tower at 8:17 a.m., we stopped again. Soon, a long BNSF
coal train – with two engines at each end – began to pass us to the
left. It took eight minutes for this slow-moving train to pass
us, and not until 8:25 a.m. did we proceed ahead toward the Amtrak
station. I remarked that 50 years ago, it would have been unheard
of for a freight train – especially a coal train – to delay a passenger
train, but today, that happens all the time!
After paralleling the light-rail line for some
distance (I observed that a light-rail train was traveling faster than
we were!), we finally came to a stop at the St. Louis Amtrak station at
8:35 a.m. As we pulled into the station, I noticed that the
Kansas City train was still in the station. This train was headed
by engine #33 and included an Amfleet Business Class/café car
and two Horizon coaches. A conductor was standing at an open door
facing our train, indicating that he was waiting for the connecting
passengers from our train.
I detrained and
watched as the connecting passengers boarded the Kansas City train,
which departed at 8:39 a.m. I then walked into the “new”
temporary Amtrak station at 8:41 a.m., just as the boarding of our
train was announced. Unlike last year, when another coach was
added to the train to accommodate passengers boarding in St. Louis,
today all passengers would be assigned to the two coaches that were
already on the train.
When I walked
outside again, I noticed that construction was underway for the
permanent Amtrak station, which was being built just northeast of the
former Amshack. The elevated walkway and stairways leading down
to two platforms (each of which would serve two tracks) was under
construction, and it was evident that the old Amshack would have to be
demolished before the new platforms could be constructed. St.
Louis is a service stop, so a truck was refueling the engines, while
another truck was emptying the holding tanks from the toilets in the
sleeping cars (my sleeper had experienced “toilet failure,” apparently
because the holding tanks were full). After taking a few
pictures, I reboarded the train and returned to my room.
We departed St.
Louis at 9:01 a.m., 31 minutes late. As had been previously
mentioned on the scanner, we turned left upon leaving the station and
followed the “high line” along the west bank of the Mississippi River,
passing under the historic Eads Bridge (now used for the light-rail
line) and then traversing an area of abandoned warehouses and
junkyards. This was an interesting change, as last year, when I
took the Texas Eagle, we crossed the river on the MacArthur Bridge,
directly east of the station. In order to better observe the
passing scenery, I decided to move to a table on the upper level of the
Sightseer Lounge car, where I spent the next two hours or so.
At 9:17 a.m., we
swung to the right and crossed the river on the Merchants Bridge.
I now walked through the coaches again and found that at least one
passenger was sitting in every group of seat in both coaches, with
about 100 coach passengers aboard the train.
After a brief stop at 9:28 a.m. at WR Interlocking,
during which the conductor announced that we are “waiting on a signal
to get on the next railroad,” we moved ahead, joining the route that we
would have taken had we crossed the MacArthur Bridge, and soon picking
up speed. A few minutes later, we passed a detector that
announced that our speed was 55 miles per hour, but we briefly slowed
down as we passed the abandoned abutments for an old Illinois Terminal
bridge and approached Lenox Tower at 9:42 a.m. And we were
further delayed at the next junction, Wood River, from 9:55 to 10:03
a.m.
We finally reached
Alton, our first stop out of St. Louis, at 10:08 a.m. When we
departed a minute later, we were 51 minutes late, having lost another
20 minutes due to the slow running out of St. Louis. The
industrial area around St. Louis has ended by now, and for the next
several hours, we traversed open farmland, broken only by occasional
small towns (and a few larger ones).
At 10:40 a.m., we
briefly stopped at Carlinville, which features a small brick shelter
for waiting passengers. Only one person boarded the train
here. Two minutes later, though, still in Carlinville, we came to
a stop. No announcement of the reason for the stop was made, but
a few minutes later, I heard on the scanner an order giving our train
permission to proceed ahead. Apparently, we had to await this
order before we could go any further, and we continued ahead at 10:49
a.m.
In the meantime,
while we were stopped, I succeeded in connecting my computer to the
Netgear network, and I managed to read a few of my e-mail
messages. This was the first time that I had succeeding in
connecting to the Internet since I left my motel yesterday
morning! However, the batteries in my computer were running low,
and the computer soon hibernated. Thus, I had to return to my
room and plug in my computer.
At 11:12 a.m., just
north of Auburn, we passed southbound Amtrak Lincoln Service Train
#301, which had taken the siding. This train was scheduled to
depart Springfield at 10:15 a.m. and was apparently running about half
an hour late. North of there, I noticed that the abandoned
Illinois Terminal right-of-way to our left has been converted into a
bike trail.
We arrived at Springfield at 11:30 a.m. and departed
at 11:34 a.m., one hour and four minutes late. As we were
departing Springfield, I walked to the last car and spent a few minutes
looking out of the back of the train. Soon, I returned to my
room.
We made a brief stop at Lincoln at 12:02 p.m.
Lincoln’s brick station has been converted to a restaurant, but even
more interesting is the Gulf, Mobile and Ohio freight station on the
opposite side of the tracks, a brick building with a stone
foundation. Unfortunately, the freight station has been severely
damaged by fire, and although the brick walls and stone foundation
appear to be intact, most of the roof has collapsed.
The steward had
announced that the dining car would close upon our arrival in
Bloomington-Normal, our next stop, so I decided to go for lunch.
I was seated opposite a woman who had boarded the train in Tucson and
was traveling to Cumberland, Maryland. She had a sleeper on the
Sunset Limited/Texas Eagle, but would be traveling in coach on the
Capitol Limited from Chicago to Cumberland. She soon finished her
meal and returned to her room, leaving me at a table by myself.
Since there was no one sitting with me, I went back to my room and
retrieved my computer, so I could do some work while eating.
During lunch, at
12:17 p.m., we slowed down and then came to a stop so that Lincoln
Service Train #303 could pass us. That train was supposed to have
arrived at Lincoln at 12:10 p.m., so it was operating about 25 minutes
late. At 12:22 p.m., we proceeded on our way, and we arrived at
Bloomington-Normal at 12:41 p.m. When we departed four minutes
later, we were just over an hour late.
After lunch, I
returned briefly to the Sightseer Lounge car, where I found that all
but two of the tables on the upper level were occupied by other
passengers. Soon, I began to feel a little tired, so I returned
to my room and took a little nap. I woke up about 1:45 p.m., and
we stopped at Joliet – our last stop before Chicago – at 2:00
p.m. When we left the station at 2:02 p.m., we were 51 minutes
late, having made up a little time.
As we passed
through Lockport, a few miles north of Joliet, I observed, to our left,
the interesting remains of the historic Illinois and Michigan
Canal. Besides the canal itself, there are several stone locks
and a collection of historic buildings (including a museum).
Then, at 2:23 p.m., we passed the southbound Texas Eagle, Train #21,
which was scheduled to depart Chicago Union Station at 1:45 p.m.
Since this section of the line (just south of milepost 13) is
double-tracked, the meet took place at track speed. This was the
third Amtrak train that we had passed since we departed St. Louis this
morning! Two minutes later, we passed the station of Summit,
served by Metra commuter trains and by Amtrak Lincoln Service
trains. We were now only 12 miles from Chicago.
We had been running at track speed all the way from
Joliet to here, but soon began to slow down. At 2:31 p.m., the
conductor announced that we would be coming to a stop because a freight
train would be crossing in front of us. We stopped for five
minutes and then continued ahead, crossing over the line of the Belt
Railway of Chicago, where the freight train had delayed us. But,
at 2:45 p.m., we proceeded across the Brighton Park rail crossing
without stopping. Until a month or two ago, this crossing had
been controlled by manual signals, and all trains had to stop before
proceeding across. The crossing was recently modernized, with new
automatic signals allowing trains to proceed across without getting
clearance from an operator.
An announcement was
now made that we would be arriving on Track 28, with “west side
unloading.” We proceeded ahead and, after making a brief stop,
crossed the Chicago River and continued to our final stop at Chicago
Union Station, where we arrived at 3:03 p.m. We were 49 minutes
late. After giving my attendant a small tip in recognition of her
superior service, I walked down the platform and over to the
Metropolitan Lounge, where I would await the departure of my connecting
Train #30, the Capitol Limited to Washington.
My trip from Dallas
to Chicago on the Texas Eagle was quite pleasant and relatively
uneventful. I’m now looking forward to the rest of the trip!