Twelve PRS members enjoyed riding six diesel/two
steam trains and one dinner tram in Australia on Mountain Outin’s (led
by Rolland Graham) August/September trip to the land where the moon
looks upside down. This article relates my experiences on the two
most unique railways which were the new line from Darwin to Alice
Springs, the GHAN, and the SAVANNAHLANDER from Mt. Surprise to Cairns
as well as the best dinner train Julie & I have had the pleasure of
riding – COLONIAL TRAMCAR RESTAURANT in Melbourne.
The nearest port in Australia to the Far East, Darwin, will decrease
containerized freight cost with approximately six mixed freight trains
a day to Southern Australia instead of using road trains (a truck
pulling three trailers)-justification for extending the line.
Passenger service on the GHAN, as in “Afghan”, (the emblem is an Afghan
on a camel in recognition of their efforts in opening up the
inhospitable interior.) is one day a week (400 customers) and has been
sold out since the new service began in the middle of February,
2004. We left 100,000 people in Darwin at 10 AM. The Darwin
Station is considerably out of town and yet there were many people
taking pictures and seeing us off. The initial scenery was palm
trees, ten foot high grass eating termite mounds, then continuous “gum”
(Eucalyptus) trees and flat terrain with small hills. In the Gold
Kangaroo section the trip starts off with a welcome aboard champagne
reception along with some history. We arrived at 1:40 PM in Katherine
where the train stops for four hours to tour the town, helicopter ride,
canoe or take a three hour river cruise through the beautiful Katherine
Gorge. No fresh water (“freshies”) crocodiles were spotted.
Gold Kangaroo First Class Service provided gourmet cuisine in the
dining car. All prepared fresh under the catering of
Quantas. Traveling overnight with a two hour stop at Tennant
Creek to insure our arrival after breakfast in Alice Springs, we
arrived at 9:20 AM in a town of 20,000 out in the bush. The four
and a half hour layover allowed you to tour the city or most went to
The Desert Wildlife Park to learn about the desert ecosystem and life
in the “Bush, Outback”. There were over 400 species of plant life
and 120 animal species-mostly wonderful singing birds. Nine AM
the next morning we arrived at the end of the line, in Adelaide, for
the Great Southern Railway.
The sleeping compartment was numbered five & six for our berth
numbers and had a beautiful gold paneled door. The upper and
lower beds were wide and laid out like VIA Rail of Canada. The
bathroom/shower was the largest we’ve experienced in a train
room. We enjoyed music from a clear sound system and there was
plenty of light to read at night – both of which are missing from
Amtrak’s double level sleeping cars. The rooms lock only from the
inside. The crew worked as a team (often doing two jobs) with the
beds being made during breakfast or dinner without having to ask.
Your hospitality attendant, who also helps out in the restaurant
besides making up the rooms, would bring coffee or tea to your room in
the morning at a predetermined time as a wakeup call.
A British Corporation provided the funding for this new trackage.
The consist of the GHAN was: two NR locomotives made in Australia
with 4,000 diesel/electric HP; three liters diesel fuel/Kilometer; 132
tons; 12,500 liters of diesel fuel; average speed of the entire 1,847
mile trip from Darwin to Adelaide is 53 MPH with the maximum of 71 MPH;
four rotating engineers with a crew change in Alice Springs. One
power van; one crew carriage; one luggage van; two coach carriages; Red
Kangaroo lounge (no bar or enclosed smoking section); Red Kangaroo
diner car; Red Kangaroo sleeper for 32 passengers; three sections of
Gold Kangaroo sleeper carriages (nine double berths for 18 passengers
and one room for the hospitality attendant) ; two sections of 18 single
berth roomettes with larger rooms than Amtrak due to a serpentine
hallway; Gold Kangaroo lounge; Gold Kangaroo “Restaurant” for 48
passengers each in two settings; two crew carriages; power van; four
motor rail carriages ($700 to transport your car or $100 if you’re in
Gold Kangaroo class which is $350 approx. premium over Red Kangaroo
service); Total of 37 carriages, 380 passengers and a crew of 40.
The carriages were built in Australia in 1969 and 1970’s under a
license from Budd by Commonwealth Engineering Granville. The
staff works five days on and one day off. The largest train was
52 cars with 510 people which was .7 of a mile long. The standard
size of the train was reduced to 37 cars since the infrastructure at
the tourist stops in Katherine and Alice Springs wasn’t able to
accommodate anymore. There are also three deluxe suites for an
additional $395/night – one double bed, a top bunk, small lounge,
tv/video player and complimentary bar.
While Julie & I enjoy our Amtrak and VIA Rail rides, the GHAN was
the best train we’ve experienced: gourmet food and the highest level of
service. The Australian trains lack dome cars, tables large
enough for four people to play cards and safety straps for the upper
berths.
Arriving at the end of the line in Adelaide 80 minutes late in the land
of sheep and rolling pasture land near the sea, the train platform
wasn’t long enough to unload all carriages so the train was split in
half. We disembarked 20 minutes after the first section.
The Australia Southern Railway held their Indian Pacific and Overland
trains for connecting passengers. We traveled from the warm rain
forest near Darwin to the dry bush and rusty red flat lands of Alice
Springs at the end of their “dry season” to the cool ocean breezes of
Adelaide.
THE SAVANNAHLANDER /Colonial
Tramcar by Jim Nowell
Down Under Trains (part 2)
The Savannahlander was a unique two car rail motor train which made
tourist stops along the way of its ten and a half hour trip from Mt.
Surprise to Cairns. Per Rolland and Ted Creveling the cars were
built in Australia in the early 1950’s for local transit and were like
an old version of the BUDD cars (2/unit). They seated approx. 90
passengers with one seat right next to the engineer. The two
engineers stopped for walks to see six foot high grass eating termite
mounds; black orchids living high up in a tree; five emus; various
wallabies; plains turkeys; the nest of the Bower Bird who had a
collection of shiny glass to attract a mate and the very tall Barron
Falls in spectacular Barron Gorge.
The old narrow gauge line use to be used by the mines in the area over
100 years ago and sat idle until a New Zealander purchased it.
Due to the lines age, Norma Dengler duped this narrow gauge the “shake,
rattle and roll” train. Up over two mountain ranges, through 15
tunnels with lunch in a town of 26 people at the Almaden Hotel – it was
a special experience.
The Kuranda Steam Train runs over a short section of the same track
from Cairns to Barron Gorge.
Dinner trains: a ride and a good meal. We have ridden many
of these and in our judgment the Napa Valley Wine train was the best
for food, the Charlie Russell Chew Choo in Lewiston, Montana was the
best for scenery (3 very tall trestles) and a realistic train
robbery. Overall though, our favorite is now the Colonial Tramcar
in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
The 1927 burgundy colored tramcar, one of three running for lunch
seated 48 in two sections with the compact kitchen in the middle.
The car was elegantly appointed for the 1920’s period. Our two
hours took us all over town on electrified rails via trolley
wire. The four course gourmet meal started with chicken liver
cream & cognac pate, which surprisingly we enjoyed, champagne,
shellfish bisque or kangaroo loin salad, prime rib fillet, red or
white wine, various cheeses with crackers & fruit and after lunch
liqueurs as well as presenting the ladies with red or white
carnations. The alcohol was unlimited and cost was approx. $63US
which is less than we usually pay.
Both rides were very memorable!